Sewing-machine.



A. E. RICHARDS.

, SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATON FILED SEPT. 18. l9l4. 1,285,387., Patented Nov. 19,1918.

3 SHEETS-SHEET l.

A. E. RICHARDS.

SEWINGl MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. Ia. I9I4.

Patented N ov. 19, 1918.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

WW1/5555i A. E. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. Ia. I9I4.

Patented N ov. 19, 1918.

3 sIIEUs-sII'EEI s.

ALFRED EDWARD RICHARDS,

OF LEICESTER, ENGLAND, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGN- MENTS, TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY,

A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented New. te, iets.

Applicationiled September 18, 1914. Serial No. 862,290.

T0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ALFRED EDWARD RICH- ARDS, a subject of the King of Great Britain., residing at Leicester, in the county of Leicester, England, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing- Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines and particularly to the type -of machine that is employed in the manufacture of felt soled shoes. Felt soled shoes are frequently provided with aleather tread face or outer sole which is sewed or otherwise attached to a felt inner sole before the upper is attached to the latter and it frequently happens during the sewing of the upper to the inner sole that the barb of the needle on its backward move-ment catches in the felt itself or in the stitches or other fastenings which have been used for connecting the tvo soles together. It is an object of this invention to provide a guard which shall, while the needle is being withdrawn, prevent it from catching as aforesaid.

Again, a -defect that frequently occurs in felt soled shoes as heretofore manufactured is that in laying the upper over the felt sole the material at the edge of the latter is pushed inward by the contact of the mate- -rial of the ,upper and is so held by the presser foot while it is being sewed. As a result, the full thickness of the felt sole is not left around its edge, a circumstance which detracts both from the lappearance of the shoe and from its wearing qualities. It is a further object of the present invention to obviate this defect.

With the former object in View, an important feature of the invention consists, therefore, in the provision in a sewing machine having a barbed needle, of` a device which is adapted to be moved into the work and which is adapted to extend across the cut-away part or barbed portion of the needle so as to prevent the barb ofthe needle from catching in the work. Preferably, and in accordance With a further feature of the invention, the said device and needle are arranged for movement il'elatively to each other in a direction along the length of the needle so as to bring the device into operative and inoperative position with respect to the barb of the needle. ance With a further feature of the invention the said device is provided with a portion which is adapted to slide in a groove in the needle so asV to prevent portions of material from passing between the device and the needle.

A further feature of the invention comprises in combination in a sewing machine, means for laying an upper over the sole bottom, and means for relatively moving the sole and the upper-overlaying meansI in a direction such that the upper will be moved In accord.

relatively to the sole bottom in a direction, I

away from the central portion of the sole bottom toward the edge thereof. By this relative movement of the sole and upperoverlaying means any material of the sole, as, for example, the corner of the sole next the upper, that has been pushed up by the action of laying the upper over the edge of the sole will be allowed to resume its correct shape.

rl`hese and other features of the invention will be understood from the following description when read in connection with the accompanying drawings which show a preferred embodiment of the invention as applied to a machine'of the type described and shown in the specification of prior British Letters Patent No. Ji173 of 1912. It is to be understood. however. that. the invention could be applied to other types of sewing machines and could be constructed in a variety of ways without departing from the spirit of the invention.

In the accompanying drawings- Figure 1 is a side elevation of part of a machine of the type specifically mentioned above with a preferred form of the means for replacing the disposed material of the sole and the needle barb guard incorporated therein;

Fig. 2 is a side elevation illustrating particularly the needle carrier, needle, and one form of barb guard made in accordance with this invent-ion, theguard and needle being shown in the work but the lbarb free of the guard so as lto receive a loop of thread;

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2, the

needle being shown in Va position wherein its barb is guarded by the device;v

Fig. 4vis a front elevation of certain of the parts shown in Fig. 2;

Figs. 5 to 8 inclusive are views of the needle and needle guard drawn to an enlarged scale and show needle uards having different forms of tongues ibr a purpose which will be described later; ,A l Fig. 9 is a side elevation of a portion of the machine showing part of a felt shoe with the presser foot and side clamp partly depressed;

Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 9, the presser foot and side clamp having been fully depressed and having moved backwardly so as to allow the sole to resume its correct form; and

. Fig. 11 is a view of details which will be referred to later.,

Machines yof the type specifically mentioned above are provided with a bracket 2 depending from a slide shown at 4, Fig. 1, and in a boss 6 on this bracket is a stud 8 on which is pivoted a carrier 10 which is adapted to carry a curved needle 12. To this carrier is connected a link 14 which through suitable mechanism is adapted to swing the carrier 10 about the stud 8 so as to drive the needle into the work. While the needle is in the work the slide is moved by suitable mechanism so as to cause the needle to feed the work. The machine is also provided with a rotatable horn 16 for the purpose of' supporting the work.

In accordance with this invention there is provided a guard which may surround, or, as in the construction shown at 18, Fig. 7 ,may partially surround, the`needle along .a considerable portion of its length. The

guard18 is formed integral with or attached in any convenient manner, as, for example, by a screw 20, to a collar 22 which is pi'voted on the stud 8 so that, the guard 18 can be swung about the same laXis as that of the needle. The collar 22'is provided with a boss 24 in which is situated a spring-pressed plunger 26 which is adapted to engage in one or the other of two holes 28, 30, Fig. 4, formed in the boss 6 on the bracket 2. In Figs.,2 and 8 is shown in section part of a shoe with a felt inner sole 32 and a leather outer sole 34, the two soles being secured together by stitches 36. The arrangemento the guard 18 is such that when the needle 12 is moved into the work to unite the upper 38 to the inner sole 32, the point of the needle 12 and the barb 40 at this time lextending beyond the. guard, the guard 18 will also be forced through the y work, as shown in Fig. 2, an abutment face 42 (see Fig. 3) `on the needle carrier 10 engaging an abutment face 44 on the guard 18 for this purpose. When the needle has reached the end of its stroke inthe work the spring-pressed plunger 26 in the-collar 22 to which the guard 18 is attached will snap into the hole 28 in the boss 6 on the bracket 2. This will hold the guard stationary in the work during part of the return stroke of the needle, the needle sliding'through the said guard until the barb is covered thereby (see Fig. 3). At this time an abutment 46 on the needle carrier 10 will engage the boss 24 on the lcollar 22 so that during the latter `part of the return movement of the needle the guard 18 as well as the needle will be moved out of the work. At the end of the backward movement of the needle the collar 22v will have been moved relatively to the boss 6 an amount such that its spring-pressed plunger 26 will engage in the hole 80 in the boss 6. The guard 18 will thus be held in position during the commencement of the forward stroke of the needle and until the needle has moved through the guard a sufficient extent to bring its barb clear thereof, at

the abutment face 44 on the guard and will swing the latter forward so that it, in company with the needle, is forced through the work.

It is sometimes found with this device that portions ofthe felt get jammed between the needle and the barb guard during their movement into the work and in order to overcome this diiliculty the guard l18 may be modiied as follows: The forward end of the barb guard, that is, that end which is adjacent the barb 40 of the needle, may be provided with a tongue 48 which may be stamped out of a portionof the guard, as shown in Figs. 5 and 6, or may be formed as a reduced extension of the guard, as shown in Figs. 7 and 8. The end 'of this tongue is bent toward the needle (see Figs. 6 and 8), and is adapted to fit into a groove 50 which is formed in the'shank of the needle. With this arrangement, as the needle and guard are forced into the work, any felt which without this arrangement might get jammed between the needle and guard, will ride over. the latter.

' When the face ofthe needle which eX- tendsffrom the point 52 tothe tip 54 of the barb 40 is at a level that is closer to the central axis of the needle than is the continuation of that face .which is situated on the opposite side of the cut-away part of the needle, that is, the face 56 (see Fig. 8), the tongue 48, when the needle is moved out of the work and relatively to the guard 18, will besituated over the barb to guard it. If, however, (see Fig. 6.) the two faces are situated at approximately the same level,

then the tongue 48 when the guard is in in Figs. 5 and 6 when the needle is of the type shown in Fig. 6, and when the guard is in operative position the portions on each side of the tongue 48 will ride over the barb. lVhen ythe faces of the needle areas shown in Fig. 8 it is preferred to use a guard having a tongue as shown in Figs. 7 and 8. It is to be understood, however, that either construction could be used with either type of needle. In each of the forms shown in Figs. 6 and 8 the cut-away part of the needle will be bridged by the tongue and as in the first mentioned embodiment a substantially smooth unbroken face will be formed which will not catch the inner sole 82 or the stitches 36 which have been employed to unite the inner and outer soles 32, 34. A needle guide (see 58 Fig. 1) may be employed, but it is arranged so as only to engage one side of the needle insteadof, as is usual, entirely surrounding it.

The means for replacing any displaced portions of the sole before sewing is shown in Figs. 1 and 9 to 11 inclusive as applied to a machine of the type specifically mentioned. The said means comprise a member 60 which is pivotally mounted at 62 on aV slide 64 which is mounted to slide in the machine frame. The member 60 is normally held in raised position away from the work (see Fig. 1), by a spring-pressed plunger 66 which bears against a lug 68 projecting from the said member. The upper overlaying means 60 comprises a presser foot 70 (Figs. i), 10 and l1) and a side clamp or edge gage 72 and in order to swing the said means against the action of the spring-pressed)- plunger 66 and move the presser and side clamp into engagement with the work the following mechanism is employed. Mounted to slide in the machine frame is a slide 74 which is normally held rearwardly of the machine by a spring 76 and is moved Jforwardly by a cam-actuated lever 78 a face 8() of which is adapted to engage an abutment face 82 on a plate 84 which is mounted onI the slide 74. On the forward end of the slide 74 is mounted a member 86 which. when the slide 74 is moved forwardly by the cam-actuated lever 78, engages and forces downwardly and on to the work the presser foot 70. rlhe lever 78 is connected by a link 88 to a lever 90 which is pivoted at 92 to the machine frame, and the continued action of the lever 78 will move, the lever 90 about its pivot and cause its lower end 94 to engage an abutment face 96 on a member fixed to the slide 64. This will more the slide 64 and consequently the presser foot 70 and side clamp 72 mounted thereon rearwardly of the machine. In Fig. 9 the edge of the sole 32 is shown pushed inwardly due to the action of laying the upper over the edge of the sole and the member 60 is shown in the act of being moved downwardly on to the work, While in Fig. 10 the member has' been moved backwardly as just described. The backward movement of the presser foot 70 moves the upper 38 with it and so allows the'sole 82 to resume its normal shape. lhe slide 64 is normally held in forward position by a spring 98 and its extreme forward position can be adjusted by means of an adjusting screw 100 carried thereby which engages an abutment 102 on the machine frame. The adjusting screw is locked in its position of adjustment by means of a locking nut 104.

The member 86 is pivoted to the slide 74 at 106 and is provided with a forked end 108, Fig. 9, which embraces an eccentric stud 110 carried by the slide 74. When the stud 110 is turned in one or the other direction the member 86 will be raised or lowered soY that on its forward movement it will lower the member 60 to a greater or less extent. `The plate 84 is also a'djustably mounted on the slide 74 so as to vary the amount of lost motion between the abutment face 82 andthe cam-actuated lever 78. By this latter adjustment the lapse of time between the time of engagement of the presser foot withl the work and the time when the presser 'foot commences to move backwardly can be varied. By the adjustment of the plate 84 the dwell of the presser foot upon the work after its outward movement also is varied. The slides 64 and 74 are held in position at their forward ends by a cap plate 112, and the backward movement of the slide 74 is limited by a pin 114 carried by the slide 74 presser foot (see Fig. 11) is free to slide on the side clamp 72 being connected thereto by a-screw 116 which passes through a slot 118 formed in the side clamp 72 and is screwed into the presser foot 70. rl`he following mechanism is provided in order to move the presser foot 70 in company with the needle. This mechanism comprises a depending finger 120, Figs. 1 and 11, which extends into a slot 122 in the member 86 and this finger 120l (see Fig. 1) is mounted on the depending bracket 2 so that it moves in company with the. needle. As the finger 120 f'moves in company with the needle it will, by reason of its connection to the member 86, also cause this member to be moved and vto permit this movement the member 86 is'adapted to slide on'its pivot 106. The member 86 is provided with a downwardly extending lug or in 124 which engages in a slot 126 formed 1n the resser foot so that, as previously mentione it will also move in company with the needle.

The operation of this mechanism will no doubt be understood from the foregoing, but

it may be briefly. restated asv follows: The cam-actuated lever'78 when operated by its cam first engages the abutment face 82 and thereby moves the slide 74 and member 86 forwardly of t e machine. This will bring the member 8 into engagement with the member 60 and will force thepresser foot portion 70 of the latter into engagement with the upper so as to cause it to lay the upper vover the felt sole. At this time the lower end of the lever 90 will engage the abutment face 96 on the slide 64 and move the said slide rearwardly against the action of its spring 98. This will cause the presser foot and side clamp tobe moved rearwardly and the former will shift the upper over the sole from the position shown in Fig. 9 to that shown' in Fig. '10 and allow the felt sole to resume its correct shape. The needle will then be forced through the work to receive the thread and thereafter the needle and presser foot, as just described, will be movedin company to feed the work. At the end of the feeding movement of the work the needle will be withdrawn therefrom the barb 'being prevented from catching in the work by the barbguard 18, and the camactuated lever 78 will be moved in the reverse direction so as to allow the member'60 to be moved forwardly by the spring 98 and to be raised from the work b'y the springpressed plunger 66, the upper being thus united to the sole. by a stitch. The needle will now be returned to its former or initial position and it willbe observed from Fig. 1 that the finger 120 and pin 124 remain in their respective slots so that the member 86 and the presser foot are returnedin company with the needle. A

Having now particularly described the nature of my invention and explained by way of example how the same may be embodied I declare that what I claim is 1. In a machine of the class described, the combination of a curved barbed needle, a needle guard arranged for movement relative t0 the needle in the direction 0f the length of the needle to', bring the guard into operative and inoperative positions with relation' to the barb of the needle, a spring- Y pressed detent pin for holding the guard stationary during the initial part of the advancing and retracting strokes of the needle, and means for movin the guard into the work with the needle uring the latter part of the advancing stroke of the needle and 65 for retracting the guard, with the needle during thelr latter vpart of the `retracting stroke of the needle. f

. 2. In a machine of the classV described, the combination of a curved barbed needle, a needle guard arranged for movement relative to the needle in the direction of the length of the needle to bring the guard into operative and inoperative positions with relation to the barb of the needle, and positively acting means for moving the guard into the Work with the needle during the latterV part of the advancing stroke of the needle Vand for retracting 'theu guard with the needle during the latter part ofthe retracting stroke of the needle.

3. In a machine of the class described, the combination of a curved barbed needle, an oscillating needle carrier, a needle guard arranged for movement relative to the needle in .the direction of the length of the needle to bring the guard into operative and inoperative positions with relation to the barb of the needle, and means carried by the needle carl'ier for moving the guard into the work with the needle during the advancing movement of the needle and for retracting the guard with the needle during the retracting movement of the needle.

4. In a machine of vthe-class described, the combination of a curved barbed needle, a guard partially surrounding the needle constructed and arranged to extend across the cutaway portion of the needle to prevent the barb of the needle from catching in the 100 work, and means for moving the guard into the Workwith the needle during the advancing movement of the needleand for' retracting the guard during the retracting movement of the needle.

5. In a machine of the class described, the combination of a curved barbed needle, a needleguard partially surrounding the needle and having an inwardly bent tongue arranged to extend across the cutaway por- 110 tion of the needle to prevent the barb of the vneedle from catching in the work,'and means for moving the guard into the work with the needle during the advancing movement of the needle and vfor retracting the guard 115 with the needle during the retracting movement of the needle.

6. In a machine of the class described, the combination of means for laying the upper over the soleI bottom, and means for moving 120 relatively the' sole and upper laying means in a direction such that the upper may be moved relatively to the sole bottom in a direction away from the central portion of the sole bottom-toward the edge thereof. 125

7 A machine of the class described, having, in combination, means for laying an upper over the sole bottom and means for thereafter moving the laying over means in a direction away from the central portlon of the sole bottom toward the edge thereof.

8. A machine of the class described, havto cause it to lay the upper over the sole bottom, and means for thereafter moving the slide to cause the overlaying means to move in a direction away from the central portion of the sole bottom toward the edge thereof.

10. A machine of the class described, having in combination, a presser foot, means for forcing the presser foot downwardly against the work, adjustable means for varying the action of said means, and means forV moving the presser foot outwardly of the shoe after it contac with the shoe upper.

11. A machine of the class described, having in combination, sewing means including work feeding means, a presser foot adapted to engage the upper and lay it over the last bottom, means for moving the presser foot outwardy of the shoe prior to the sewing operation, and means for moving the presser foot with the workdeeding means to assist in feeding the work.

12. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, a presser foot, means for actuating the presser foot over and downwardly upon the work, means for thereafter moving the presser foot outwardly of the shoe, and means for varying the dwell of the resser foot upon the work after the outward) movement thereof.

13. In a machine for sewing turn shoes having felt soles the combination of sewing means, means for laying the upper over the last including an edge gage, means for varying the forward position of the/ed e gage relatively to the sewing means, an means for moving the overlaymg means outwardly of the shoe prior to the sewing operation.

14. In a machine of the class described, the combination of sewing means, a device foiengaging the marginal portion of the upper overlying the sole bottom, and means for moving relatively the sole and the upper engaging device in a direction such that the upper may be moved relatively'to the sole bottom in the direction away from the central portion of the solo bottom toward the edge thereof.

15. In anmachine of the class described, the combination of a curved bai-bed needle, an oscillating needle carrier, a needle guard, an oscillatory carrier for the needle guard mounted coaxially with the needle carrier, and means for controlling and relatively actuating the-needle and needle guard to cause the guard to uncover the barb of the needle before the needle barb enters the Work during the advancing stroke of the needle, to penetrate the work with -the needle, to cover the barb of the needle before the needle barb enters the work during the retracting stroke of the needle, and to retract from the work with the needle.

16. In a machine of the class described, the combination of a curved barbed needle, an oscillating needle carrier, a needle guard, an oscilla-tory carrier for the needle guard mounted coaxially with the needle carrier, means carried by the needle carrier for moving the guard into the work with the needle during the advancing stroke of the needle, and for retracting the guard with the needle *during the retracting stroke of the needle,

and means for causing the guard to uncover the barb of the needle before the needle barb enters the work in the advancing stroke of the needle, and to cover the barb of the needle before the needle barb enters the work during the retracting stroke of the needle.

17. In a machine ofthe class described, the combination of sewing means, a device for engaging the marginal portion of the upper overlying the sole bottom, means for` moving the upper engaging device in the direction of feed to assist in feeding the work,

andv means for moving relatively the sole and the upper engaging device in a direction such that the upper may be moved relatively to the sole bottom in the direction away from the central portion of the sole bottom toward the edge thereof.

ALFRED EDWARD RICHARDS.

Witnesses VIOLET LoUIE BEAsmY, CEGIL HERBERT CROSS. 

